The Waiapu Mountains (Raukumara Ranges)

Situated near the north eastern end of the Raukumara Range is a group of imposing mountain peaks, Hikurangi, Whanokao, Aorangi, Wharekia and Taitai, which may be viewed to the west of SH 35 between Te Puia and Tikitiki.

Although this area is considered to be geologically complex it is generally accepted that the summit rocks of Aorangi, Wharekia and Taitai are the erosional remnants of individual hard sandstone bodies which were originally deposited within mudstone. They occupy their present position largely as a result of uplift, while erosion has sculpted the mountains into their present form. Of the group, Hikurangi has had less geological investigation and at present is considered to be structurally different while no detailed geological study of Whanokao has been undertaken.

The first recorded observations of this area made by a European were on 19 October 1769 when the Master's Mate on 'Endeavour' recorded, 'a very high hill covered on the top with snow'. The next European to record Hikurangi, and the first to actually refer to it by name, was the French explorer, Dumont D'Urville, who sailed up the East Coast in the corvette 'Astrolabe' in February 1827. D'Urville recorded, 'among the mountains that surround it, rises Mount lkou-rangui whose soaring peak dominates the whole of this part of New Zealand'. Early missionaries to this area also made mention of these lofty mountains as early as 1834 and one even noted that there was a covering of snow on Hikurangi on 3 December 1844.

During 1875-80 survey parties were active and many trig stations were established on the peaks. Several finds of moa bones have been recorded from this area.

Hikurangi, 1752 metres, has the distinction of being the highest non-volcanic and the fifth highest mountain peak in the North Island. The name Hikurangi is apparently one of great antiquity and may go back to some remote ancestoral homeland on the Asiatic mainland and it is a common hill or mountain name throughout Polynesia. It is found in many parts of New Zealand. This sacred East Coast mountain with its twin peaks is steeped in tradition and is held in great respect and awe.

Tradition tells there was a time when the land was covered with water and Maui and his brothers floated upon the waters in a canoe, fishing. Maui hooked Te lka a Maui - the North Island, and with the assistance of his brothers brought it to the surface. As the great fish rose from the water the canoe grounded on what proved to be the top of the mountain Hikurangi. A small, very sacred lake, Te Puna o Tinirau, marks the spot where Maui was buried while his canoe is up there still, in petrified form, turned to stone.

Tradition also relates that the other nearby mountains came into being during rivalry between the great legendary figures Paoa and Rongokako. It happened that during a visit to the East Coast, when Rongokako was accompanied by a large bird, Paoa decided to destroy them. He set a snare (tawhiti) by bending a great totara tree, whose base was near Hikurangi. The top of the tree was held down by a noose and fixed to the hill Tawhiti just north of Tokomaru Bay. The snare was suitably baited. Rongokako recognised the trap and set it off, some say with a stick, others say by chopping it with his axe. As the great totara rebounded to an upright position at Hikurangi, it set up such vibrations that mighty Hikurangi partly disintegrated and Aorangi, Whanokao, Taitai and Wharekia were formed.

The legend that Te Manu te Ra - 'Bird of Day' or 'Bird of the Suil', was reputed to have dwelt on Hikurangi, possibly gives rise to the well-known claim that 'Hikurangi is the first place in the world to be touched by the rising sun' This belief, although having strong local appeal, is questioned by purists.

Whanokao, 1625 metres, is the second highest mountain on the East Coast and can be seen from certain vantage points in the Bay of Plenty. It is a long narrow saw-toothed ridge with two predominant peaks and is seen to full advantage from the Tapuaeroa Valley over which it forms an impressive sentinel. Being tall and slightly distant from the main cluster it has an air of remoteness and aloofness.

Whanokao forms the boundary between Whanau Apanui of the Bay of Plenty and Ngati Porou of the East Coast but the summit is regarded as being Ngati Porou territory. Many Maori block boundaries converge on this mountain. In recent years Whanokao has become the objective for a number of expeditions for climbing or botanical study as no in-depth studies have previously been undertaken.

Whanokao fails within the boundary of the Raukumara Forest Park which is a large untouched wilderness area having a secluded untamed character. This mountain presents a formidable climbing challenge as there are no formed tracks. Users should be well equipped and prepared for dense scrub and difficult terrain.

Aorangi, 1272 metres, is the third highest peak in this group. Geologically it is more closely associated with Taitai and Wharekia than with Hikurangi. Local legend tells how Hikurangi and Aorangi fought over nearby Taitai. A long and bloody fight ensued during which the nearby rivers ran red. Mighty Hikurangi was the victor and to this day Aorangi continues to weep and this explains why there is seldom snow on Aorangi - the tears wash away the snow.

Aorangiwai Scenic Reserve is on the south-western half of Aorangi. It is a steep reserve mainly forested with virgin bush consisting of tawa-podocarp forest but as the altitude increases this gives way to beech then finally subalpine species.

Aorangi had significance to the local Maori as a walking track to the Bay of Plenty was reputed to have begun in this vicinity.

Wharekia, 965 metres. Although not as high as some of the other peaks in this location, Wharekia is quite spectacular, its western and southern sides being sheer 180 metre cliffs. In spite of these imposing cliffs it is basin like in structure. Geologically, Wharekia has been studied in some detail. Early Land Court records refer to a pa and burial ground on Wharekia. The pa was a refuge for local people during times of attack.

Taitai, 677 metres, is the smallest and most accessible of the mountains in this group and has been more extensively explored by geologists than others in this area. The names 'Taitai Series' and 'Taitai Sandstone' have New Zealand wide application and have become incorporated in New Zealand's geological nomenclature. Although a mountain that could have been Taitai was recorded on maps and charts as early as 1827, it was not until 1866 that it was correctly located and named. Taitai played a significant role during the Ngapuhi raids of 1818-23 when the local Ngati Porou withdrew to a strongly fortified pa on the slopes.

Tramping, climbing and trout fishing are a few of the activities in this area but permission must be obtained from the landowners. For the newcomer, local knowledge should be sought before attempting any strenuous or difficult venture. An itinerary should also be left with some responsible person. Accommodation is available in nearby townships and Rip Station Homestead (contact Department of Conservation, Gisborne) offers excellent facilities in close proximity to the mountains.