Tairawhiti Heritage Trail

North, South, East Coast

Haeremai, haremai, haremai - koutou ki te tairawhiti

Welcome to the Tairawhiti Heritage Trail. It leads you through lands now within the Gisborne District. The Trail winds through the ancestral lands of the Maori who arrived here over a thousand years ago. They called the region Tairawhiti, the coast upon which the sun shines across the water. It is a region rich in historical sites and meeting houses, MARAE.

Europeans first landed in New Zealand with the arrival of Captain Cook in Poverty Bay 1769, followed by visiting traders. After 1830 they stayed to trade, to whale, to spread Christianity and to farm. They developed small ports and built wharves, freezing works and dairy factories, almost all now vanished.

The "local" people think of themselves as friendly, informal and like to talk to travellers who are interested in their land, its history and its future.

The Information Centres will put you in touch with the most recent initiatives for meeting local people, taking part in local activities and visiting places of interest.

While you are in TAIRAWHITI you may hear Maori spoken as a first language, TE REO MAORI, many Maori words are also used in conversational English.

You may be greeted with KIA ORA, hello, or MORENA, good morning. The local people are known as the TANGATA WHENUA. Europeans are often referred to as PAKEHA.

If you visit a MARAE, a traditional centre for a Maori family or tribe, you will be MANUHIRI, a visitor. You may be welcomed with a POWHIRI, a ceremony of greeting, and there will be WAIATA, songs. You may wish to make a donation, KOHA, and you may be given the traditional greeting of pressing noses, HONGI. If you are offered food, it is KAI, which may have been cooked in a ground oven, HANGI, or it may be KAI MOANA, seafood.

Many sites are sacred, TAPU, to the Maori, especially parts of the MARAE, and URUPA, burial grounds.

Be guided in how you behave and where you go by what the KAUMATUA and KUIA, the elders say.

46km Otoko Walkway, 5km in length, follows part of the old Gisborne to Moutohora railway taking 2 - 3 hours to complete and is suitable for all age groups. Wooden culverts, concrete sumps, fish plates and spikes are scattered along the walk way. There is a 500m detour to view a picturesque waterfall set amongst native bush that is noted for the kowhai blossom in spring. The walkway is closed during lambing season, 1 August - 23 October.

73km Matawai Hotel, at the junction of SH2 and the Motu Road, houses a varied collection of memorabilia of pioneer times. Matawai was a sawmilling settlement that gradually became a farming centre as the bush was felled.

87km Motu, once a busy sawmilling settlement, is now deserted. Whinray Scenic Reserve, a wholly pre-European forest containing 50m giant podocarps, is considered one of the best in the Gisborne District. A good walking track leads to the Motu falls. Moutohora, a nearby sawmilling settlement with a large metal quarry, was the railhead until the line closed in 1959.

The Old Motu Road, a relic from coaching days, passes through the Motu Gorge then over the Huiarau range, passing through several scenic reserves until it drops down to the Bay of Plenty. This unsealed road through wild rugged country surrounded by much native bush is a remnant of past travel. It is not recommended during wet weather.

84.5km Trafford's Hill, summit 725m, is the highest point on SH2 between Gisborne and Opotiki. From here to the Bay of Plenty the road winds through the scenic Waioeka Gorge.

Tairawhiti heritage trail

State highway 2 - north

NOTE: Distances are to actual site from Gisborne Information Centre, 209 Grey Street.

19 km Gray's Bush, 6km from SH2, is a 12ha pre-European bush remnant that is thought to be the only forest community of its type left in New Zealand. The reserve contains the unique mixture of tall kahikatea over puriri with a light undergrowth of nikau, pukatea, karaka and tawa. This small bush is the only remaining stand of original forest on the whole of the Poverty Bay Flats.

17.5km Ormond was established in 1870 and was the headquarters of the Armed Constabulary between 1870 and 1897. At one time it was a larger settlement than Gisborne and it has been said that Ormond was intended to be the main centre with Gisborne as the port. There are still several buildings in use from the 1870s. In 1902 the rail from Gisborne to Ormond was opened.

23.5km Waipaoa Freezing Works, 1915 - 1931, was the third works to be established in Poverty Bay. Although 20km inland these works were built beside the railway. This was the first reinforced concrete building erected in the district.

Eventually the company was taken over and ultimately became part of the Gisborne Refrigeration Company which led to its closure with the consolidation of the works at Kaiti. The buildings were left empty and the substantial ruins are easily seen today. Permission is required before entry.

67km Mangatu Forest, 32km from SH2, was established as a joint protection/production forest. A total 12,000ha was planted between 1960 - 1987 to stabilize the erosion prone hills in the Mangatu/Tarndale area and to reduce the sediment load in the Waipaoa River. Harvest began in 1990 and by the mid 1990s is expected to reach a quarter of a million tonnes of logs per annum.

Permission must be obtained before entering the forests.

13.5km Manutuke is a very historic area which includes several Maori marae. Te Poho o Rukupo, a finely painted house, is one of the oldest meeting houses standing in Poverty Bay. Nearby is Toko Toru Tapu, an Anglican church, the interior of which is adorned with magnificent Maori carvings. Close by at Whakato marae stands the richly carved house Te Mana o Turanga which was opened in 1883. The first Turanga Mission Station established by William Williams was transferred here in 1842 from nearby Kaupapa. Here began the Diocese of Waiapu.

16km Tapui, on Taurau Valley Road was a large ancient fortified pa belonging to the Rongowhakaata who lived in the area. It is of particular historic interest because of very deep ditches, high embankments and the fact that it was a river pa. These early Maori earthworks are in a good state of preservation and can be easily viewed from the road. This is private property.

28km Young Nicks Head - Te Kuri o Paoa. This white cliffed headland was named by Captain James Cook after Nicholas Young, the first person on board the 'Endeavour' to sight land, in October 1769. Legend tells that this headland is Paoa's dog and under certain conditions the dog can be seen in a crouching position looking in an easterly direction towards the sunrise.

42km Wharerata Rest Area, elevation 488m, is reached after passing through the Wharerata Hill Scenic Reserve. From here magnificent views of the East Coast, Poverty Bay and the surrounding district may be seen.

Tarawhiti heritage trail

State highway 2 - south

NOTE: Distances are to actual site from Gisborne Information Centre, 209 Grey Street.

5.5 km Makaraka Cemetery was purchased in 1872. This historic cemetery contains many memorials to early pioneers of the Poverty Bay district. A handsome monument in memory of the victims of the Poverty Bay Massacre of 1868 is to be seen here.

8km Matawhero Church was originally built as a schoolroom in the mid 1860s and was the only building in the district to survive the Te Kooti raid in 1868. It became a Presbyterian church in 1872 and is the oldest standing church in Poverty Bay. It is marked by an Historic Places Trust plaque.

18 km Rongopai, Lavenham Road Waituhi, was built in 1888 in preparation for a visit from Te Kooti. It has a remarkable painted interior where Maori decorations and motifs show a strong European influence. Here Maori art has met European art and has given a unique style of folk art. Permission is required before entering the marae.

35km Eastwoodhill Arboretum on the road to Rere consists of 65ha of attractive parkland which is planted with a variety of exotic trees and shrubs. This is the largest and most extensive collection of northern hemisphere flora in New Zealand. Eastwoodhill was presented to the nation in 1975. Autumn and spring are particularly spectacular times to visit the arboretum.

11km Waipaoa River Flood Control Scheme constructed 1953 - 1973, protects Gisborne City and enables the 10,000ha rich river flats of Poverty Bay to be a major production area for wine and horticulture.

12.5km Opou Station Historic Places Trust plaque commemorates where pastoral farming commenced in Poverty Bay in 1835. J W Harris leased, then purchased in 1839 this 24ha block of land, which has been continuously farmed ever since. Between the woolshed and the river stands an enormous oak, planted in 1837.

Tairawhiti heritage trail

State highway 35 - east coast

NOTE: Distances are to actual site from Gisborne Information Centre, 209 Grey Street.

1.5 km Cook Landing Site, Erected in 1906 the Cook Monument commemorates the first landing place of Captain James Cook in New Zealand on 8th October 1769. It is believed that the monument stands within 50 to 100 metres of the actual landing site where the first significant contact between Maori and Pakeha took place.

1.7km Te Poho-o-Rawiri. This whare runanga built in 1925 was one of the first in New Zealand to be built of modern materials. The interior has excellent examples of carving in traditional Maori patterns. Te Poho-o-Rawiri is one of the largest meeting houses in New Zealand. Permission should be sought before visiting.

3.2km Titirangi (Kaiti Hill), originally a Maori pa site, was gifted to Gisborne City by the Maori owners. Titirangi offers magnificent views of Poverty Bay, city and surrounding rural areas. Places of interest include a plane table, Cook Bi-Centenary Memorial Plaza, gun emplacement and observatory. Recent native tree planting, the establishment of fitness stations and the development of extensive walkways with picnic and seating areas have created Titirangi recreational reserve.

5.5 km Sperm Whale Grave. On 18th March 1970 a pod of 59 sperm whales were stranded on the northern end of Wainui Beach. After refloating attempts were unsuccessful a grave was dug in the sandhills and the carcases buried.

32km Whangara, 3km from SH35 is where the legendary Paikea, who travelled to New Zealand on the back of a whale, is commemorated by a carving on Whitireia Meeting House. The nearby island is said to be the final resting place of the whale. Permission should be sought before visiting the marae. Here is good fishing and safe swimming.

55.5 km Cook's Cove walkway, over Titirangi Hill, gives panoramic views of the rural countryside. Tupaea's Cavern, a natural rock archway, connects Cook's Cove with Tolaga Bay. Here in the cove Captain Cook stayed six days repairing the 'Endeavour' and taking on water and supplies. This walkway is closed during lambing season.

56km Tolaga Bay Wharf at 660 metres in length is the longest in New Zealand. Now in disuse, it was built between 1926 and 1929 to allow ships to unload at all tides.

68 km King Spencer Reserve is a 31ha scenic reserve at the site of the Spencer homestead built in 1906. Steep cliffs covered with native bush are a backdrop to a 10ha river flat planted with English trees. Access permission is required from the landowner.

77km Anaura Bay has a beautiful beach of unspoiled golden sand 6km from Sh35. A Historic Places Trust plaque beside Hawai Stream marks Captain Cook's second landing place in New Zealand. A native bush walkway giving wonderful scenic views is being upgraded. Safe swimming, good fishing, marae visits, Maori history and culture are available in this area.

96km Waima, Tokomaru Bay, 4km from SH35 turn-off was an early coastal shipping port. The wharf is still used by commercial fishermen. The imposing brick Shipping Co. building, the harbourmaster's house and the massive ruins of the Tokomaru Bay Freezing Works (1911-1952) are still very evident. Permission is required before entering the ruins. This area is rich in art, craft and Maori culture, there being many local marae.

110km Waipiro Bay is now a small beach settlement 6km from SH35. At the turn of the century it was the largest settlement on the East Coast and was the centre of county administration. Waipiro Bay once bustled with coastal shipping as livestock and wool were transferred to and from by surfboat while timber was floated in on the tide as there was no wharf. Construction of the East Coast road in the 1920s diverted the traffic along the inland route. Sir Robert Kerridge, founder of a nationwide theatre chain, built his first picture theatre here.

150km St. Mary's Church, Tikitiki is one of the finest Maori churches in New Zealand. It was built in 1924 and consecrated in 1926 as a memorial to the soldiers of Ngati Porou who died in World War I. Here is a meeting of two cultures, a European structure with an extensively carved and decorated Maori interior which recounts the history of the Ngati Porou. On the east wall is a memorial to Sir Apirana Ngata.

196.5km East Cape Lighthouse is 22km from Te Araroa. Originally built in 1906 on East Island it was moved to the present site in 1922 due to erosion on the island. Automation took place in 1985. The lighthouse stands 154m above sea-level and a walking track with approximately 500 steps commences behind the unused keepers' houses.

174.5km Te Araroa is situated on Kawakawa Bay beneath the famous escarpment of Whetumatarau. The area abounds in Maori history and as early as 1843 was settled by European missionaries. It is the birthplace of Sir Apirana Ngata who was a member of parliament for 38 years. In the school grounds close to the sea stands Te Waha-o-Rerekohu one of the largest pohutukawa trees in New Zealand. It is reputed to be over 600 years old. There is excellent fishing in the bay.

186km Hicks Bay. Tuwhakairiora Meeting House are outstanding century old interior carvings and unique rafter designs. Earlier this century this area was a hive of industry with a freezing works and a bustling port. The wharf and the derelict remains of the freezing works can be viewed from the road. The area offers excellent fishing, safe swimming and native bushwalks. Notable to the area are ancient puriri trees.